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Issue 1, 2002

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A Celebration in the Mountains of Crete
BY OLGA LEMMEN AND RUURD KUIJLENBURG, THE NETHERLANDS

The mountains of South West Crete are majestic and strong. Dry, because of the climate and wet, because of the snow that covers the mountaintops and the reservoirs of water in the wells. The unique nature of the mountains that appear to rise out of the land seemed to beckon us and so we went on an adventurous hiking expedition, which would lead us to a special experience

We started with a steep climb up a cliff of about 500 metres, which brought us to a platform that was a valley for the snowcovered mountains ahead of us. We took the time to have a small break and to catch our breath. As we were eating our apples, we suddenly saw a small chapel of the Greek Orthodox Church. Later we heard that people regularly visit this chapel to celebrate their religious devotion.

image of a Celebration in the Mountainxs of CreteWhilst we were resting and listening to the sounds of nature and admiring the beautiful view of the snowy mountains, we heard the sounds of a group of men gathering. This was a surprise to us. It seemed to us a landscape in which you expect birds of prey like the albatross, and a herd of sheep, but not people having a party of some kind! As if out of the blue, there was a group of about 15 men, sitting on stones at an improvised table made from materials found in the area. Men, young and old, some of them with weather-beaten faces, from all walks of life, were gathering.

Our path led to their meeting place and we continued walking until they saw us walking by. From then on our plan changed and took on a direction of its own. The men waved at us and called us to come to their celebration. We cautiously approached and immediately were shown to a seat on the bench and were made to feel safe and welcome. And before we knew it, there was a dish of home-made potato soup in front of us and we were offered the mutton that was on the table and our glasses were filled with local wine. They showed us how to eat a piece of mutton the Greek way, and they told us proudly that they had prepared the food all by themselves up in the mountains. The men were celebrating the change of season. The snow was retreating from the mountains and that was a sign for the men living in the district to celebrate by having lunch together.

To us, this was quite an experience! A gathering of essences of a different kind, on the surface it was just eating and drinking, but hidden behind it, when you had a closer look, was a deeper connective feeling, a greater search and… It was a gathering of essences like honour, being proud, oneness and brotherhood, confidence and unity.

Being Proud was there in their posture and attitude, in their upright postures and straight backs and in what came out of their eyes. It felt like an undercurrent, which radiated from them, about their survival of having gone through the wintertime and now once again entering a time of greater freedom.

Oneness and brotherhood was there in the ceremonial way they drank their wine. From one to the other, each the same, in posture and in attitude, emptying the glass in one gulp, again and again, from one to the other, and being refilled, from one pair of eyes to another pair of eyes, sticking to the contract.

Confidence and unity was seen and felt in that each man was part of it. No matter what background or age. It was the same for the plumber as it was for the hotel owner and the shepherd. It was in the joy amongst them of being together therein.

It was in the honour to uphold their inherited ways of expressing what is of value to them. Now, separate from the women, independent and from man to man, feeling how it feels, and being confirmed in their manly ways of going on and strengthened by it. And honour in the way they made the soup and the mutton and in the way they drank their home-made wine.

Then, later, each man went his own way, going down the mountain and back to the village, to continue the work of the day, to earn his living, whether as a plumber, a hotel owner or a shepherd, which is an integral part of their lives and of what needs to be done. Then later to rejoin their women, to be welcomed and to be there, now rededicated to the life and family needs.

This story and experience seems in the first place quite ordinary. But on taking a closer look as one feels and searches within it, then you can sense a driving undercurrent in which men gathered in a same-same way. They gave the space for an inner compulsion, to be filled with confirmation and the strength of manly things and then allowed themselves to be washed clean by the influence of Mother Nature. Cleaned and refreshed they each went their way, to reunite with all the aspects of life and the needs of every day.

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